Lethal’s GT500- 3.4L Whipple Install Kit Write-Up w/Pics
March 12th | Uncategorized | Comment now »
Well the time has come. Since we received our GT500 we’ve had plans to throw the big 3.4L Whipple on it. However, there were several things we wanted to do in preparation of the blower upgrade which included suspension, driveline and cooling modification. Now that all of that is done it’s time to throw the badboy 3.4L Whipple on and make some power!! Several months before we received our 3.4L our good friend Dustin Whipple from Whipple Superchargers let us know a top secret project he’d been working on. It was a new rotor profile which was more efficient than the last. Dustin was so impressed with how the new rotor profile performed that he told us he had plans of adding that profile to all of their compressor sizes. In this case we’re speaking of the Gen II W210ax 3.4L blower. Dustin told us that the new rotor profile was much more aggressive than the last design and simply flowed more air. Not only did it flow more air but it did so with less RPM’s and lower IAT temps. He noted a 2 PSI increase in boost at the same pulley level as before. As if Whipple’s superchargers weren’t already the most efficient twin screws on the market they just got better.
For the GT500 the 3.4L blower doesn’t fit under the stock hood or strut tower brace without using the 3.4L Install Kit. The blower is just so massive that when fitted on top of the GT500’s 5.4L motor there’s just no room. This installation kit consists of some K-Member spacers, Modified Motor Mounts, Sway Bar Relocation spacers, Lowering springs and all the necessary hardware for a complete install. Once the car has installed the 3.4L install kit the monster 3.4L supercharger fits the stock hood and strut tower brace perfectly.
The concept behind the install kit is to space the K-member from the frame. This helps lower the motor 3/4″. The next part of lowering the motor is the modified motor mounts which help lower the motor an additional 1/2″. As you lower the motor you’ll need to correct the location of the sway bar so that it retains the stock geometry. This is done with an additional set of spacers which are included in the kit. Now that we’ve spaced the K-member and lowered the motor the body height in the front of the vehicle is raised by 3/4″. To correct this and give the car a stock look along with stock driveability we include a special set of lowering springs to bring the car back to the stock ride height. Lastly included in the kit is a set of fuel rail spacers. These are not needed when using the stock injectors but when upgrading to the taller 60lb injectors the rail gets raised as the 60’s are taller than the stock 52’s.
There’s been a lot of confusion and skepticism about the 3.4L install kit and lowering the motor but we’re here to show you all that it’s first off not a difficult installation and most importantly something that doesn’t compromise the stock ride or driveability of the car. Lowering the motor and spacing the K-member is a simple task and when rewarded with the ability to run the biggest and baddest twin screw on the planet!
Here’s the blower
Although the kit is a relatively easy kit to install we recommend having a professional do the install.
The first step of the installation was to go into the engine bay from above with the intake off of the car in order to remove the plastic pushpins on each side which keep the head of the stock K-member bolts in place. Once they’re removed and the bolts are loosened from the underside of the vehicle they can easily be pushed up and out of the frame. We then raised the car on the lift and supported the engine and transmission using 2 transmission jacks.
Working with one side at a time we were now ready to install the K-member spacers. We first removed the nuts on the front K-member mounting location and loosened the bolts on the rear K-member mount. We slowly lowered the transmission jacks which then gave us just enough room to slide the spacers in between the frame and the front K-member mount. If after lowering the jacks you still don’t have enough room to slide the spacers in you can loosen the nuts from the other side of the k-member just enough to where you have enough room to slide the spacers in on the opposite side. Just make sure to not fully remove the bolts or nuts from the opposite side of the K-member that you’re working with.
Here’s where we removed the stock K-member bolts
Then we used the long bolt and washer supplied with the kit and dropped it through the frame, spacer and K-member from the top. Using the supplied washer, locking washer and nut we then tightened up the nut on the bolt. Do not fully tighten the nut until you’ve finished placing the spacers on the front and rear K-member mounts as tightening them before installing the rear K-member spacers will not give you the ability to adjust the K-member if needed.
Here’s the front K-member mounting position with the spacers
Now for the rear K-member spacer we made sure there was enough space to slide the spacer in. Using the supplied 2.5″ bolts we bolted them through the rear mount of the K-member and spacer to the frame.
Here’s a picture of the rear K-member mount with the spacers
Once we were done with 1 side we moved to the other and did the same exact thing making sure that the engine and transmission were still supported with the transmission jack supports.
There’s a few other things that are part of the 3.4L Install kit which we didn’t have to due since we removed our front Sway bar as well as we’re running the BMR KM011 lowered K-Member. If you are still running the stock K-Member you’ll need to install both the Lowered Motor Mounts and Sway Bar Bracket Relocation Spacers.
Here’s a picture of where to install the spacers on the front sway bar mounting bracket.
Here’s where we space the bracket for the Sway Bar Support
Our review of the Whipple 3.4L Installation kit is a very positive one. The kit we use has everything we needed for a complete install. Everything went on the car just how it was supposed to and the kit did exactly what we wanted it to do. With the 3.4L Whipple now installed there’s still plenty of clearance for the stock hood and the stock strut tower brace. I’ve personally logged several hundred miles on our car with the new setup and the car ride great. There’s no difference that I can notice on how the car handles or how it feels. As I drove through the country roads on the way to the NMRA season opener in Bradenton, FL the 3 hour drive was a blast. Again the car drove great through all of the windy roads and after the long haul we took the car to it’s fastest times ever running a 10.65@132.xx MPH. On the street and the track the 3.4L Whipple installation kit was like it wasn’t even there. This is why we’re 100% confident in selling these kits to our customers. Not only can you now run the sickest twin screw blower for the GT500 but you can do it all under the stock hood and strut tower brace.
The other part of the installation which we did not cover here is the front lowering springs. Our 3.4L Installation kit comes with the proper springs to bring your car back to the stock ride height. For our car we had already installed the BMR front and rear lowering springs. What worked out good for us is that BMR doesn’t make a GT500 specific set of springs. However the rear BMR lowering springs work out great on the GT500. Lowering the car and giving it an aggressive stance. The front BMR springs however are made for the GT which has a much lighter front end then the GT500 so the spring rate used on the front springs is less than it would be for a GT500. With that said the BMR springs lowered the car quite a bit. More than what was needed to give it a sleek look. We looked at the front end of our car with the BMR springs and realized that after adding the 3/4″ spacer kit that the BMR front spring height would be perfect. Once the install kit was done and the car was pulled out of the garage we were very happy as what we though was going to happen did. The BMR springs were perfect in the front. Below is a picture of our car as it sits today with the Whipple installed using the BMR front and rear lowering springs.
Whipple Installed
If you have any questions pertaining the 3.4L Whipple Install kit or the all new Gen II 3.4L GT500 Whipple Supercharger please feel free to give us a call.
Big thanks goes out to Dyno Joe from Dyno Joe Performance for participating in our build and sending us the installation kit for our car. We appreciate the support Joe!
Here’s how the car sits now
BMR Front Suspension Installed- Tubular K-Member, A-Arms and Radiator/Sway Bar Delete!!
March 11th | Uncategorized | Comment now »
As we continue our build of the Lethal GT500 we had a few things that still needed to be addressed. One of them being the weight of the car and second the upcoming installation of the 3.4L Whipple Supercharger.
The first item which definitely needed to be addressed was the weight. Ford claims the 2007-2008 GT500 coupe weighs in at 3,920 lbs. That’s a good 250lbs more than the previous 03-04 Cobra which was heavy enough. For many people that’s not that big of a difference but keep in mind that the 3,920 is about 400lbs heavier than the 05+ GT. When trying to build a car to run good times weight and HP are the 2 major concerns. You can add as much HP as you like but the weight will always be a factor in going faster. That’s why the GT500 in stock form really isn’t that impressive at the strip as it’s HP to weight ratio is out of whack.
The fix.. BMR front suspension!!
BMR Fabrication located in FL is one of the largest suspension companies in the industry. Making very high quality performance suspension parts for most Ford and Gm cars these guys had what we needed. The ability to drop weight and improve handling over the stock setup is what we had in mind. BMR’s 05-08 Mustang Tubular K-Member, A-Arms and Radiator Sway-Bar Delete are just what the doctor ordered.
Starting with the stock K-Member which weighs 44lbs it can easily be replaced with BMR’s Tubular K-Member for a 20lb weight reduction. The BMR K-Member is made of strong DOM Tubing and can be installed in a mere 2 hours. Their K-members also come in many different configurations which include using OEM or Windsor style motor mounts as well as Manual OE or Pinto style steering racks. The BMR K-Member will also house the stock or BMR A-Arms. So whichever route you feel like going there’s a K-member from BMR for your application. One of the features we also liked in the BMR K-Member was that they offer a version (KM011) which has the motor mounts in a position where it drops the motor height by 3/4 inches. This was a plus for us as we wanted to keep the stock hood when we install our 3.4L Whipple Supercharger. Although the 3/4″ drop isn’t enough by itself to make the blower fit under the strut tower brace or stock hood it was a great start.
The next BMR item which we added was their tubular A-Arms (AA010). The BMR A-Arms are a perfect match to their tubular K-Member and helped us to take some more weight off of the front end. They’re made from 1.25″ DOM tubing and include ball joints which are sourced directly from a Ford OEM supplier. The BMR Tubular A-Arms show below are lighter and stronger then the OEM stamped steel A-Arm. Each BMR A-Arm is 11.2lbs lighter than the stock A-Arm so when adding the pair you’re looking at another 22lbs in weight savings. Their also offered in Street (Poly Bushing) or Adjustable (Sperical Rod End) versions. We chose to go with the street version as we wanted to keep the stock feel of the front end and the rod ends tend to transfer noise more than a softer poly bushing does.
The third item from BMR which we added was their Lightweight Tubular Radiator Support/Sway Bar Delete (RS002). The 05+ Mustangs all utilize a chunky metal bracket to support the radiator. It’s not needed as crossmember was built extra strong to support the sway bar. So since we were removing the sway bar as well the crossmember only needs to support the radiator. With the removal of the Sway Bar and stock radiator support we saw a weight reduction of 26.5lbs.
The last BMR piece which we added to the front end was the front A-Arm Support (AAS001). This brace mounts on legs of either the stock or BMR A-Arms tying the legs of the K-member together. We felt it was a good idea to add this piece to add extra support for the added hp and street driving we do.
All of the BMR parts were installed at the same time we installed our exhaust. The reason for this is that it’s a lot easier to install the longtubes on the car with the K-member out of the way. So we basically killed two birds with one stone by removing the stock k-member to install the headers and then re-installed the BMR K-member after the headers were in.
REVIEW- After having the K-member/A-Arm setup in the car for a few months now and have driven several hundred miles with all of us are really impressed. Not only does the car drive great but we shed just about 70lbs of unwanted weight off of the front end. Before putting the K-member in we had heard several people say that we would lose streetability with the aftermarket K-member and would notice a considerable amount of noise vibration over the stock setup. This is not the case with the BMR K-Member. The car feels solid and smooth. Steering and handling is the same as it was before and it’s definitely helped us to shed some of the unwanted weight that the GT500 comes with. We took the car to the track twice since the new front suspension was installed and ran faster each time we went out. To this date our best time is a 11.423@123.42mph.
We definitely feel that the BMR front suspension will show a lot more benefitial later down the line as we make our way into the 10’s and then push further to the 9’s.
We’d like to say thanks the entire crew over at BMR Fabrication for not only participating in our build but supplying us and our customers the high quality suspension components. You guys have been great and we’re glad to be part of the crew.
For information about any of BMR’s parts please feel free to give us a call. 1-877-2LETHAL
Removal of the stock K-Member
K-Member Installation
http://bmrfabrication.com/INSTALL/KM009-010.pdf
INSTALLATION: 1. Lift vehicle and support with stands positioned under the frame rails. Remove both front wheels/tires. 2. Using a 18mm deep socket, loosen both outer tie rod ends. Knock both tie rods loose from the spindles. 3. Remove the power steering line retainer located in the center of the rack. This requires a 8mm wrench. See Image1. 4. Using a 18mm socket, remove both rack mounting bolts. Mark a line on the steering shaft at the front connection point to insure proper re-assembly location. Remove the front steering shaft bolt using a 13mm socket or wrench (See Image 2). Leave both power steering lines attached but move the rack out of the way to gain access to the front A-arm bolts. 5. Remove all 4 rear A-arm bolts using a 21mm deep socket. Using a 18mm socket, remove both front A-arm bolts. 6. Loosen and remove the A-arms’ ball joint cross-bolts using a 15mm wrench and a 18mm socket. Knock or pry the ball joint loose from the spindle. NOTE: It is not possible to remove the A-arms until the K-member is lowered. 7. Using a 15mm socket with an extra long extension, remove both motor mount nuts from the top. 8. Support the motor from below with a block of wood on a hydraulic jack. Lift motor slightly. 9. Using a 18mm socket, remove all 8 K-member bolts and lower the K-member/A-arm assembly. 10. Insert one of the polyurethane motor mount bushings and sleeve into both motor mounts stands on the K-member and lift the K-member up into place. Insert all 8 mounting bolts but do not tighten.
11. Line up the motor stands with the mounting bushings on the K-member. It may be necessary to shift the K-member or the motor slightly to get the holes lined up. Once lined up, position the other polyurethane bushings and supplied 2” washers on the bottom of the K-member mounting bracket and insert the supplied 3/8” bolt. The bushings should “sandwich” the K- member mount when installed correctly. Tighten the bushing mounting bolts to approximately 35 ft/lbs. using a 9/16” wrench and 9/16” socket. 12. Tighten all 8 K-member mounting bolts to 85 ft/lbs. using a 18mm socket. Lower jack and remove. 13. Install the A-arms using the supplied aluminum spacers and hardware (See Image 3). Tighten the front A-arm bolts to 100 ft/lbs. using a 22mm wrench and socket. Tighten the rear to 110 ft/lbs. using a 13/16” wrench and a 7/8” socket. 14. Insert the ball joint into the spindle and insert the cross-bolt. Tighten to 40 ft/lbs. using a 15mm wrench and 18mm socket. 15. Using the supplied bolts and washers, mount the rack to the K-member. When installing, verify that the steering shaft is positioned according to the previous mark. Tighten both mounting bolts to 85 ft/lbs. using a ¾” wrench and socket. Tighten steering shaft cross-bolt to 20 ft/lbs. 16. Mount both outer tie rods to the spindles and tighten to 85 ft/lbs. using a 18mm socket. 17. Re-install wheels/tires, double-check all mounting bolts and lower vehicle. 18. Due to production tolerance, an alignment is recommended after this installation.
A-Arm Installation
http://bmrfabrication.com/INSTALL/AA010_019.pdf
INSTALLATION: 1. Lift vehicle and support with stands positioned under the frame rails. Remove both front wheels/tires. 2. This step is not necessary for installation but makes the work area more accessible. Using a 18mm deep socket, loosen both outer tie rod ends. Knock both tie rods loose from the spindles. 3. Using a 15mm wrench and 18mm socket, loosen and remove the spindle bolt that clamps the ball joint to the spindle. 4. Using a 18mm socket, loosen and remove the rear A-arm bolts on the K-member. 5. Using a 18mm socket, remove the front A-arm bolt on the K-member. 6. Remove A-arm. 7. If you are installing BMR non-adjustable A-arms (AA010), proceed with the installation using steps 1-6 in reverse. If installing BMR adjustable A-arms, adjust the rod-ends to the approximate length of the OE A-arm and then install. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE FRONT A-ARM BOLT UNTIL THE SUSPENSION IS LOADED, FAILURE TO DO WILL CAUSE BUSHING PRE-LOAD RESULTING IN PREMATURE BUSHING WEAR. 8. With the A-arms installed, torque the bolts to the following specs: 1. Rear A-arm bolts – 95 FT/LBS. 2. Tie rod stud – 85 FT/LBS. 3. Ball joint cross-bolt – 40 FT/LBS. 4. If using BMR adjustable A-arms, tighten the jam-nut on the rod end at this time. 9. Repeat steps 3-8 for the other side. 10. Re-install wheels/tires and allow the vehicles weight to rest on the suspension. The suspension is now loaded and the front bushings may be tightened to 95 FT/LBS. If not on a service lift, this step may be done on ramps or blocks. 11. Grease all bushings on the A-arms with a grease gun. For optimal wear qualities and minimal noise, a silicone, polyurethane-specific grease is recommended.
Radiator Bracket/Sway Bar Delete
http://bmrfabrication.com/INSTALL/RS002.pdf
1. Lift vehicle and support safely with stands under frame rails. 2. Using a 18mm socket, remove the sway bar end links from the strut on each side. 3. Using a 15mm socket, remove the sway bar cross member mounts and lower the swaybar/endlink assembly. 4. Locate the plastic bumper cover support and remove the 7 screws using a 7/32” socket. Remove cover. 5. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the nut that retains the AC line clip to the top of the factory radiator cross member. 6. The brake lines are attached in two areas by clips on the cross member. One is located on the vertical section of the passenger side and the other is on the horizontal section of the driver’s side. Pop the brake line out of these clips. 7. Place a jack stand under the radiator to prevent it from moving when the cross member is removed. 8. Using a 18mm socket, remove the 4 bolts and lower the cross member. 9. Remove the two rubber isolators from the factory cross member and install them into the BMR cross member. 10. Install the BMR cross member and tighten nuts to 110 ft/lbs. 11. Remove jack stand from under radiator. 12. If using the factory bumper cover support, re-install it to the bumper cover and zip tie the back portion to the new cross member. Zip tie the brake line in the middle as shown in the image below 13. Lower vehicle.
Full Exhaust Installed!! Kooks 1-3/4″ Headers and Magnaflow 3″ Catback System w/Magnapack Mufflers!!
March 3rd | Uncategorized | Comment now »
After putting the JLT Intake and VMP tune on the car it was time to allow this baby to breath and sound like it should. Although we liked how the stock exhaust had a nice little rumble it was far from how a muscle car should sound. Over the last few years I’ve become a big fan of Magnaflow products running a Magnaflow catback on my 03 Cobra and then swapping that out for the Magnapack system once I put in the solid axle. Magnaflow not only sounds good but is also made from fully stainless T-304 steel which lasts.
So when it came down to what exhaust setup we chose for our car there’s no question why we chose the 3″ Magnaflow System with Magnapack Mufflers.
In addition to running the Magnaflow Catback we wanted to treat our GT500 to a nice set of longtube headers. We intend on building our car to the 800rwhp range so a better flowing exhaust will help increase efficiency of the motor and provide better power gains than the stock manifolds are capable of. For the headers we called upon our good friends over at Kooks custom headers who have always provided us with super high quality headers and X-pipes. I personally run a set of Kooks Custom Headers on my 03 Cobra and love the way they fit, sound and perform. The craftsmanship and quality of them are a step above the rest and the Kooks family are great people to deal with which makes it all that better.
We ended up going with the Kooks 1-3/4″ headers with a 3×2.5″ Offroad X-Pipe which mates to the stock and most aftermarket axle-back systems. We chose the offroad X pipe for the fact that we love LOUD and we’re looking to squeeze every little bit out of the car. Not to mention there’s no inspections down here in FL so it wasn’t even a question to go offroad.
Onto the install
Everything worked out great for us as we were installing a BMR Fabrication tubular K-Member at the same time as the headers. Once the stock K-member and exhaust was removed it was onto bolting up the headers.
For the easiest install of the Kooks headers we removed the K-member. This was a very easy process as there’s only 6 bolts that hold the K member to the frame. While supporting the motor with transmission jacks we removed the steering rack form the K-member and then the K-member from the frame. Not only did this gave us better room to work with but at the same time we were installing a BMR tubular K-member to start dropping weight. The installation of the headers once the K-member was off was fairly easy. Some notes that will help others with the install consist of removing the starter as well as cutting the passenger side header flange to allow the dipstick tube to stay in it’s stock location. Since the dipstick tube actually rests itself on the exhaust manifold it’s easier to cut the 1 piece header flange to retain that stock setup rather than having to bend and relocate the tube to the outside of the flange. Lastly we found that reusing the stock studs and bolts we’re real easy to do and also found out from past experience that not only using the stock studs but to also the OEM gaskets provide for a great seal and won’t allow any header bolts come loose as the studs are very secure.
Besides that the headers have a great fit and went in with ease. The next step was to install the Magnaflow system. The Magnaflow looked so nice on the floor that it was hard for us to think that we’d be hiding it under the car. The best tip we have when installing the 3″ Magnaflow system is to keep everything loose on the car so that it can be properly adjusted for fitment and then after everything is where we wanted it then it was time to tighten things up.
Here’s a video clip of how the car sounds. Just as we thought…. The car sounds sick.
It’s definitely loud but surprisingly when idling or just cruising it’s fairly tame. Once you lay into it though you’ll definitely be noticed. For anyone that likes Magnaflow and sick sounding exhaust system you should definitely check this setup out.Before we ran the car hard we had Justin@VMP Tuning update our tune as the longtube headers tend to lean out the tune a bit. A quick email to Justin and a few minutes later we had the new tune file. Shortly after that we had the opportunity to attend the 2nd annual Shelby meet in Ovieda, Fl. Good thing for us was that Justin had brought his dyno and was able to dial our car in a little better. With 2 runs he had the tune perfect yielding us 522rwhp and 502tq.
This was actually the first time the car has ever been on the dyno. The modifications at the time of this dyno are: AFCO Heat Exchanger, Canton Radiator Expansion Tank, PFAB Intercooler Reservoir, JLT Carbon Fiber Cold Air Intake, VMP Custom tune, Kooks Longtube Headers and the Magnaflow 3″ Catback System, BMR K-Member and A-Arms, Steeda Upper and Lower UCA’s and CHE Anti Squat Brackets . We’re still running the stock pulley so with that said we’re definitely happy with the numbers we’re putting down.
A big thanks goes out to our good friend Gary and Abby Zap for providing the Magnapack System and of course George R and the rest of the crew over at Kooks Custom Headers. Thanks for your continued support and volunteering to participate in our GT500 build!!
Lethal’s GT500 NEW BEST! 11.42@123.42-Stock Pulley and Gears!
February 28th | Uncategorized | Comment now »
We’re real proud of the results we got last night up at Moroso. Derek was driving the car and was blessed with some nice cool air which came trough yesterday afternoon.
Not only did we get a change to run our best time but we also had the chance to prove that the 265/40/18 MT ET Street Radial’s were worthy of some sick track times. The car as it stands still has the stock blower,stock pulley, stock gears and stock rims on it.
Mods are:
JLT CF Intake
VMP Tune
Kooks LT’s
Magnaflow Catback
Steeda Triax
DSS Driveshaft
AFCO Heat Exchanger
Canton and PFAB Reservoirs
BMR K-Member/Brace and A-Arms
Radiator Sway Bar Delete
Steeda Upper and Lower UCA’s
CHE Anti Squat Brackets
MT 265/40/18 ET Street Radials
Our best time to date was an 11.71@108.XX. The reason for the low MPH and time was due to us bracket racing and trying to advance to the next round so our driver was on the brakes so not to break out.
Last night with some nice cool weather we headed to Moroso. We got down into the low 40’s which helped quite a bit especially with the cool downs.
With that said here’s proof that the 265/40/18 MT Drag Radial is more than adequate!!
NEW BEST 11.423@123.42mph
2nd BEST RUN 11.471@122.26mph
Driveshaft Shop 3.5″ Aluminum GT500 Driveshaft Installed!
February 14th | Uncategorized | Comment now »
Driveshaft Shop 3.5″ Aluminum GT500 Driveshaft Installed!
One of the first steps we decided to do to our drivetrain and suspension was install the all new DSS 3.5″ aluminum driveshaft. The reason for this is that we intend on making some sick power as well as putting a lot of stress on the drivetrain at the track. We’ve already had several successful track outings however the more we push the car the more likely we are to break something. In this case the drivetrain is definitely at risk. The stock GT500 driveshaft is a 2 piece shaft which weighs in just over 39lbs. The DSS 3.5″ Aluminum Shaft weighs 17lbs and is a 1 piece lightweight aluminum design. The DSS driveshaft is rated at 900hp which gives us a little more comfort launching the car with drag radials and slicks. The DSS driveshaft comes with everything needed for installation. The shaft bolts to the rear of the vehicle with a custom made 6061 T6 Aluminum plate and has solid joints. Another great thing about the DSS 3.5 inch design is when lowering the car you won’t bottom out the shaft on the underside of the car like other 4″ shafts on the market do.
The installation was simple and the quality of the DSS 3.5″ shaft is outstanding.
We first removed the stock shaft at the transmission as well as where the center of driveshaft mounts to the frame.
My first impression of the driveshaft after it was installed was great. The car rode just as smooth as before and on the street while cruising you have no idea that it’s even there. We took the car to the track that evening and ran our best time of 11.71 on the brakes through the traps, as we were bracket racing and wanted to advance to the next round. After a night of racing I asked our driver and good friend Jeremy Martorella if he noticed anything different and he commented that besides running faster times he would have had no idea the shaft was on the car. This is definitely a good thing as with the S197’s funky drivetrain other aftermarket shafts have displayed vibration at certain speeds. No such thing with the DSS shaft as it’s been designed to perform.
Installation of the DSS GT500 3.5″ Aluminum Driveshaft
First we had to remove the stock driveshaft. This is done by removing the 4 bolts at the front of the shaft where it mounts to the transmission as well as removing the bolts that hold the center driveshaft mount to the frame.
Then we removed the 4 bolts that mount the driveshaft to the differential.
With the stock driveshaft off the car we were now ready to install the DSS 3.5″ Aluminum Driveshaft.
Using the DSS Aluminum adapter plate we attached the plate to the DSS shaft with the supplied bolts.
Then using the stock bolts we re-attached the DSS shaft to the differential.
Lastly we used the stock bolts and re-attached the front of the DSS shaft onto the front driveshaft mount located at the transmission.
Overall we’re very impressed with the DSS GT500 Driveshaft. Special thanks goes out to Frank@DSS for participating in our build and for doing what he does best in providing high quality drivetrain parts. We appreciate the support.
If you have any questions about the DSS 3.5″ Aluminum Driveshaft for your GT500 please feel free to give us a call. Thanks, Jared
1-877-2LETHAL
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Installed and Feels Awesome!
January 27th | Uncategorized | Comment now »
The week before we ran our new best Derek somehow missed 2nd gear not once but twice in the same night. Derek didn’t notice anything different with the car but for some reason had a hard time finding the gear that night. After that we felt it necessary to ditch the stock shifter for a better performing aftermarket piece. ( I’ll note that I was personally impressed with the way the stock shifter and transmission felt as it was definitely the smoothest shifting mustang I had ever been in. Going from an 03 Cobra T-56 to the new GT500 TR-6060 it’s a night and day difference.)
Onto the shifter we called upon our good friend Scott Boda from Steeda Autosports. Steeda has been making the very well known and top performing Tri-Ax shifter for years so we figured it would be a no brainer to use one on our GT500. Scott hooked it up and had a shifter at our door the next day.
My initial impression when I drove the car for the first time with the Tri-ax was just what I thought. There was no more slop and selecting gears was much more precise. The throw of the Tri-Ax was much shorter than the stock shifter. During a slow cruise I was definitely impressed with how the shifter felt and knew it would show it’s positive characteristics at the track.
Note: The Tri-Ax shifter does transmit some drivetrain noise over the stock shifter. It is noticeable but is in no way overbearing or annoying. The increased noise is due to the design of the aftermarket billet shifter which remove the stock rubber bushings and mounting positions. That’s why shifting is improved so much with the aftermarket shifter as there’s just too much flex with the stock shifter due to all the rubber bushings and mounts.
The next test was the track. We took the car out to the first Mustang Challenge event of 2008 at Moroso Motorsports Park. This time we had our good friend Jeremy Martorella from UPR Products with us. Jeremy has driven our car down the track several times before so we knew he would be able to give us a good comparison on how the shifter felt compared to the stock one. The night went very well for us running consistent 1.75 60ft’s and 7.58 1/8th mile runs. Our best of the evening was an impressive 1.73 60ft with a 7.53 1/8th. No doubt this was the best performance we’ve seen so far from our 08′ GT500.
After the night came to an end we asked Jeremy what he thought about the Steeda Tri-Ax and just like I mentioned earlier he confirmed that it felt great. He mentioned that there was no more slop while the car was in gear and that hitting gears was much more precise. He also noted that the throw on the shifter helped him to hit the gears much quicker and gave him a lot more confidence to shift faster. Throughout the entire evening Jeremy didn’t miss a gear at all. Mission Accomplished!!
To sum it all up we are very impressed with the Steeda Tri-Ax shifter for the GT500. For any GT500 owner that’s looking for a better performing shifter we definitely suggest the Tri-Ax. It not only feels great on the street cruising but performs great at the track. We know as we continue our build and our quest for quicker track times the Tri-Ax will play a large role as quick and precise shifting of the car is imperative to lower ET’s.
A big thanks goes out to Scott Boda and Steeda Autosports for taking an interest in and contributing to our GT500 project car. We really appreciate the support!
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter for the GT500
Removal of the stock shifter
We first started by putting the car on a lift. This gave us a lot better access to the underside of the car. Before raising the car we unscrewed the shift knob by turning it counterclockwise. After the knob was removed we also took off the leather boot that houses the stock shifter handle.
Next step was to remove the 2 bolts that keep the shifter handle connected to the shift lever.
We then removed the insulation material at the base of the shift lever as well as the rectangular steel plate and boot.
The next step was to loosen and remove the driveshaft. So we raised the car and removed the 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the flange as well as the bolts at the driveshaft center mount. We made sure to mark the shaft and the flange so that when we reinstall the driveshaft all of the bolts would go into the same holes they were removed from. This is very important as if you neglect this process you may cause the driveshaft to be out of balance and vibrate while driving.
The next step was to remove the nut that secures the factory shift rod to the shift lever. Then remove the shoulder bolt and pull the shift rod out of the way.
Remove the pins that attach the shifter arms to the transmission. The pins have to be rotated up in order to release the clips before they can be pulled out.
Remove the two nuts that attach the rear shifter mount to the chassis just above the driveshaft flange on the transmission. Now the stock shifter can be removed from the car.
Installing the Steeda Tri-Ax
Remove one of the front shifter bushings from the OE shifter arm for use on the Steeda shifter arm. Press the rubber bushing into the Steeda shifter first then press in the white nylon tube.
Attach the arm of the shifter to the base with the provided Socket Head Cap Screws.
Press the two grey bushings in the lower hole of the lever. Use the provided
Aluminum spacer to offset the bushing on the drivers side Picture 6. This will
require a small press or vice.
Assemble the rear shifter mount. Sandwich the rear hole in the shifter with the two provided urethane bushings. Then insert the flanged tube from the top with the round edge facing forward. Bolt the assembly together as shown using large washer, then the lock washer, and provided hex bolt .
Fit the new Tri-Ax shifter into the opening in the chassis and attach the transmission arm to the passenger side of the transmission using the factory pin removed.
Attach the rear of the shifter to the factory studs on the chassis using the
nuts removed.
Grease the new bushings and the shoulder bolt for the factory shift rod,
Reinstall the nut and shoulder bolt using thread locker.
From above reinstall the steel plate with rubber boot. Then place the
insulation back into position.
Install the shift handle by bolting it to the shift lever. It is recommended
that the handle be installed in the higher position for the greatest driver comfort.
For the shortest throw, install the handle in the lower position. For
Clearance purposes it is recommended that the handle be installed on the
passenger side of the shift lever offset away from the driver.
Be sure all bolts are tightened securely. Thread locking compound is
highly recommended.
Re-install the shift boot and knob. Important: Always use an anti-seize
compound on the threads when installing an aluminum shift knob onto the Steeda shift handle.
Additional Tech Tip:
Variation in the transmission height may cause the shift to be extremely tight and very difficult to move. If this is the case, use two of the four washers (shown below) between the rear of the shifter body and the chassis. If problem persists, add the second set of washers.
Lethal’s GT500 gets a VMP Custom Tune!
January 24th | Uncategorized | Comment now »
After adding the JLT Carbon Fiber High Flow intake on our GT500 it was time for a tune. In fact when adding any cold air intake on a GT500 a tune is required. The reason for this is the MAF systems on the 05+ Mustangs is very sensitive. If you were to install a high flow intake on a GT500 without a tune the car will immediately put itself into failsafe mode and won’t run properly.
So we looked to our good friend Justin Starkey from VMP Custom Tuning to hook our baby up with a high performance tune. Justin is one of the most recognized modular tuners in the industry. His extensive training with SCT and years of hands on dyno tuning has taken him to the top of the list for custom tuning. Justin owns a custom Dyno-Jet mobile dyno which he takes around the country to different events and dyno days to tune many different cars. He’s also got a tuning facility in Debary, FL which is where he does extensive testing on customers vehicles as well as his own.
What’s great about Justin is that he’s a GT500 owner as well. Taking the time to test each and every intake, pulley and even the all new Ford Racing TVS blower he’s got a huge database of tune files for all. With that said there’s no questioning why we had Justin tune our own GT500.
After installing the JLT Intake on the car all we had to do was download the tune file that Justin sent us through email and put it onto our SCT Xcalibrator 3. From there all we did was plug the tuner in under the dash and followed the simple instructions to flash the vehicle with Justin’s custom tune. All in all it was a 5 minute process. When we finished uploading the tune to the car we turned the key on and fired her up. The car started without any issues and idled perfectly. As I took the car down the block I could hear the sound of air being sucked into the JLT intake and the sweet sounds that the supercharger makes was much more noticeable. I took the car out of my community and took a nice cruise with her taking it real easy allowing the computer to recognize the new tune and adjust the the amount of air it was now breathing. It was a cool night out and I knew that once I got on it she would scream but since this was my first time in a tuned GT500 with a high flow intake I had no idea what a difference it would make. We had been told that a JLT intake and tune was good for about 80rwhp but up until that point that was a hard number to digest. I mean how could a car get 80rwhp from just an intake and tune?? Well I found out how once I mashed the pedal. The car just took off like it was a different car then before. Way more aggressive and the power change felt amazing.
Our true test was to take the car to the track. If you’ve been following our track outings our best time so far was an 11.90@117mph. This was done on a real good night with air temps in the low 40’s. Our first night at the track with the intake and tune however wasn’t ideal for record times as it was humid and in the mid 70’s. None the less we were able to pull off an 11.84@118.XX. Still not a true test to how much the intake and tune helped but it was a start. Our next trip out however yielded us a 11.73@119 which again was done in warmer weather. The temps that night were in the 70’s and it was still quite humid.
We wanted one more shot at some times with just the intake and tune. Still running the stock exhaust, pulley and suspension. The only changes made were a DSS 3.5″ Aluminum Driveshaft and a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter. This night was the first race of the 2008 Mustang Challenge and we wanted to show everyone how well the car ran since we sponsor the event. We did just that by running an 11.71@108.XX. Looking at that time you’ll say what happened to our MPH and you’ll be amazed to know that the 11.71 was done while braking through the traps. That’s right braking through the traps!! We were trying to advance to the next round of the braket race event and we were going to breakout so our driver chose to ride the brake which took us to the next round and still left us with our best 1/4 mile time so far. We were cutting consistent 1.75 60ft times with an awesome 1.73 60ft for that 11.71 run.
All in all the results were amazing. If we only had some cooler weather we definitely feel that 11.50’s were in our forecast.
So if you’re looking to take the next step in modifying your GT500 and want the ultimate performance you’ll definitely want it to be tuned by Justin@VMP Tuning. Just to let you know Justin is our exclusive tuner for all of our custom GT500 and 05+ Mustang tuning packages! Check out some of our custom tuned packages all offered with Justin’s tunes!
Lethal’s New Best: 11.71 while braking through the traps!!!
January 20th | Uncategorized | Comment now »
We had an awesome evening tonight as it was the first Mustang Challenge event of the year. If you guys didn’t see Lethal Performance is the main sponsor for the event this year. The Mustang Challenge is monthly bracket race which takes place at Moroso and is seriously a real good time.
We were hoping to have the cold front that swept through the South to bring us some good air but unfortunately it stayed just north of us. We were stuck in the low 70’s again with 88% humidity. Not bad but not the air that’s going to give us what we’re looking for.
This time behind the wheel we had our good friend Jeremy Martorella from UPR Products tearing it up. Jeremy has only been down the track 3 other times with our GT500 before this evening.
Our Mod List is:
JLT Carbon Fiber Intake
VMP Custom Tune
AFCO Pro-Series Heat Exchanger
PFAB Intercooler Reservoir
Canton Radiator Expansion Tank
DSS 3.5″ Aluminum Driveshaft
Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter
STOCK PULLEY, STOCK SUSPENSION, STOCK EXHAUST!
Jeremy was able to cut some sick 60ft times with a 1.735 being the the best also yielding our best 1/4 mile time of the evening of 11.71@108.35.. The craziest thing is that he was on the brakes as he went through the traps as we were trying to advance to the next round of the bracket race. The 1/8 mile time of that run was 7.521. That 60ft and 1/8 with descent weather should yield us a 11.5X. So we’re hoping to get another crack at it with some cool weather before the FL heat comes back.
The only changes we made to the car since the last time at the track are a DSS 3.5′ Aluminum Driveshaft and a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter. Big thanks to Frank@DSS for hooking us up with the driveshaft as we know it will be needed as we continue our build. A big thanks as well to our good friend Scott Boda of Steeda Autosports for hooking us up with the shifter. Jeremy said that the shifter felt a lot better than stock. The stock shifter had some slop in it and the Tri-ax’s throw was way shorter than stock making it a lot easier to shift. He also noted that the Tri-ax hit every gear dead on at ease.
All in all it was an awesome night. Thanks to everyone who came out tonight for the Challenge and a big thanks to Jeremy for donating his driving skills.
More times to come soon! Jared
Lethal’s GT500 New best at the track: 11.73@119.72
January 17th | Uncategorized | Comment now »
Fresh off the press from Jonas and Derek at Moroso Motorsports Park. We’re taking another crack at some times just before we start the suspension mods. The car as it stands now has an AFCO Dual Pass Heat Exchanger, PFAB Intercooler Reservoir, Canton Radiator Reservoir, JLT Carbon Fiber Intake, VMP Custom Tune and Hoosier 315/35/17 Drag Radials!
Stock suspension, Stock Pulley and Stock Exhaust!
Derek just drove the car on his first pass to a 11.73@119.72. The weather unfortunately still warmer than we would like it to be. We saw a cold front early in the week which left us today with a warm and humid evening. Temps at Moroso are 72deg with humidity at 63%.
JLT GT500 Carbon Fiber High Flow Intake- Installation with pictures!
January 13th | Uncategorized | 1 Comment »
Moving on with the LethalGT500 project car it was time to start removing the restrictive stock intake system. We had already run a 11.90@117 on the stock intake so now it was time to see what the highly regarded and dyno proven JLT Carbon Fiber intake system would do.
So our good friends at JLT were kind enough to donate one of their Carbon Fiber GT500 intakes to us. From all of the kits we’ve sold and all of the amazing feedback we’ve gotten about them we really looked forward to the install. What’s not to be excited about when the JLT intake as when it’s accompanied with a tune has shown gains of up to 80rwhp on the 5.4L beast. That’s an amazing amount of power from just an intake and tune. For those that aren’t familiar with the newer mustangs (2005+) most cold air intakes require a tune as the stock computer is so sensitive to the amount of air the mass air system detects. The JLT GT500 Carbon Fiber Intake in this case will not function properly on the car without a tune. The car simply will not run right and will put itself into failsafe mode.
Onto the install we were prompted by JLT’s instructions that we would need: 5/16″ nut driver, 8mm, 10mm & 13mm sockets and ratchet, #20 Torx driver, and a Phillips head screw driver.
The first thing we did was remove the stock intake system from the car. This was done by using the 8mm socket to loosen the clamp that holds the intake to the throttle body. Then using the 10mm socket we removed the bolt that holds the airbox to the frame. Make sure to disconnect both pcv hoses on each side of the stock intake located close to the throttle body as well as disconnecting the connector at the MAF.
After the stock system was removed from the car we started to assemble the JLT intake per their instrutions making sure to leave all of the hose clamps loose as that will allow you to adjust the intake properly once it’s on the car. Using the #20 Torx bit we loosened the stock MAF meter from the stock MAF housing. Using the supplied screws we then installed the stock MAF sensor onto JLT 110mm MAF housing making sure that the arrow on the meter indicating the path of airflow is aimed at the throttle body. Tighten the screws to a snug fit. Do not tighten the screws to where the ears of the MAF start to bend. That’s overdoing it.
When we finished assembling the JLT Intake we wanted to make a good comparison of it against the stock intake system. With them side by side it was easy to see how the stock system is choked from breathing air due to it’s enclosed box design. The JLT not only looked a lot better with it’s carbon fiber construction but the open filter element was the sure sign of it being able to breath a lot better than what was on the car before.
INSTALLING THE JLT INTAKE:
Remove the strut tower brace by using the 13mm socket.
Take the entire JLT intake assembly and place it into the engine bay where the stock intake used to be .
Then remove the 10mm bolt on the radiator support which holds down the ABS brake bracket. This is where you install the JLT intake support. The support bracket will sit just under the filter holding the intake system in place.
With the hose clamps still loose slide the upper silicone hose connection over the throttle body. Gently squeezing the hose connector made it easy to fit over the oval shape of the throttle body.
We then gently put the strut tower brace back on the vehicle and bolted it down making sure it did not push hard on the intake tube as we didn’t want to damage the carbon fiber.
This next step is very important. Make sure to adjust the intake and upper hose connector at the throttle body so that the bottom of the connector is snug against the throttle body but the top of the connector is angled down off of the stops on the throttle body. This allows the intake to properly clear the strut tower brace. You want to leave anywhere from 1/4″ to 1/2″ clearance between the intake tube and strut tower brace. Due to some variances in how the vehicles were built you may need to use the supplied spacers which will space the strut tower a little higher for better clearance.
Once you’ve gotten the intake in good position clear of the strut tower brace you can start tightening the hose clamps using the 8mm socket. Make sure not to tighten the clamps too tight on the carbon fiber pipe. Snug is good.
Then reconnect the PCV connections on both sides of the intake and the connector on the MAF.
Verify that the intake stayed in place and you still have the appropriate clearance from the strut tower brace.
Remember do not start the vehicle unless it has a custom tune on it. The vehicle will not run properly!
All in all the install was very easy and we have always been impressed with the fit and finish of JLT’s products. The Carbon Fiber looks amazing in the engine bay as well. Once we threw a tune on the car and took it for a ride the difference was noticeable right away. The car had way more pep than before. It reminded me of the first time I put a smaller pulley on my 03 Cobra but in this case the power came simply from replacing the intake with the JLT system. Not only was I able to notice the power increase right away I also noticed the sound of the supercharger become a lot clearer and aggressive sounding. It was like Frankenstein had come alive!! For our project car we really aren’t too concerned about dyno numbers so seeing the actual rear wheel horsepower increase isn’t important to us. We will indeed be dialing the car in with more custom tuning but the real results we get from mods like this will be backed up with track numbers. We’re just another step into building the ultimate Shelby GT500 street car!!
Thanks to Jay and Lisa Tucker of JLT True Cold Air for providing us with such awesome products and amazing service over the last few years! We appreciate all of your support!!
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